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How Bonaire Works
Bonaire, a Dutch Caribbean island 100 km north of Venezuela, operates on a model unique in dive travel: the entire west coast is Bonaire National Marine Park, marked by numbered yellow painted rocks along the road, and virtually any diver with an open-water certification can dive independently. You rent a vehicle — typically a pickup truck — at the dive shop, take your tanks for the day, and drive from site to site on your own schedule.
No boat to catch. No divemaster to follow. No schedule. Drive to a yellow-painted rock, gear up, walk in.
The Marine Park Structure
Bonaire established the Bonaire Marine Park in 1979 — one of the first marine parks in the Caribbean. The park encompasses the entire west coast of Bonaire plus Klein Bonaire, the small uninhabited island 800 metres offshore. No fishing. No anchoring on the reef. No collection of anything.
The result over 45 years: reefs in significantly better condition than comparable Caribbean sites. Coral coverage on Bonaire's west coast is among the highest measured in the Caribbean.
The Best Sites
Hilma Hooker: A 71-metre freighter sunk in 1984 after being found carrying 25,000 kg of marijuana. Sits on a sand slope at 28-30 metres. Excellent penetration diving; the hull is covered in sponges and surrounded by angelfish, drum, and spotted moray eels.
Salt Pier: The pier supporting Bonaire's salt production facility. The legs are encrusted with sponges, corals, and sea rods; schools of grunts shelter underneath. Night diving at Salt Pier is outstanding.
1000 Steps (Piedra Haltu): The name refers to the 67 actual steps to the water entry. At the bottom, a sloping reef system with unusual species mix — creole wrasse, midnight parrotfish, large French angelfish.
Klein Bonaire: The island facing Bonaire's main coast is accessed by water taxi. Several dive sites ring Klein Bonaire; the north and south tips have the best coral diversity.
Practical Information
- Marine Park fee: USD 40/year; required for all diving
- Tank rental: All major operators rent tanks
- Flight: KLM direct from Amsterdam; connections from multiple US hubs via Aruba
- Best season: Year-round. December-April is ideal.